Monday July 24, 26.0km/16.2mi

Pla d’Espélunguère (205.9km/1460m) (France) to Refuge de Pombie (231.9km/2030m) (France)

I woke up to the sound of dripping water on my tent and assumed it was raining. But I finally looked outside, and I realized it was just a nearby tree dripping on us. I packed up and I hiked uphill in the morning fog. Adam took a little longer to wake up and he said he would catch me at lunchtime.

It was a nice steady climb and not too difficult, and despite hiking uphill it was still a little chilly because of the dense fog. Sometimes I see these little locked cabins and I wonder what mysteries are inside.

When I got to the top of the climb I went over a pass, which also meant I crossed the border into Spain. When I looked behind me back down into France I could see the fog I had just hiked through.

Looking ahead, it was sunny in Spain! The lake Ibón de Astanés was a nice surprise.

I hiked around the lake and then descended the other side of the hill, into the rising sun.

Once I got partway down the hill, I crossed back into France and immediately was immersed in the fog. Bummer.

Hiking through the forest was a little less cold and windy, but I had to watch my step on all the slippery leaves and roots.

It was a chilly but relaxing morning hike.

When I came to a little ski resort I noticed all the signs were in Spanish, and soon after I saw a Spain border sign. And of course the fog cleared away.

I hiked through the little ski town of Candanchu, a lovely little Spanish village that was also full of sheep.

I love seeing ski lifts in summertime, it feels so bizarre.

Candanchu was only a few blocks long but it had a few cafes and a little general store. I ordered a bagel and tea at the cafe, and then I had dessert at the general store.

As I was about to leave the little town, Adam caught up and we hiked out of town together. It was just before noon, so after hiking for a couple kilometers we stopped at a little waterfall to have lunch.

It was a warm day in the sun and we had an uphill climb to do.

Looking back downhill from the top of the climb, it’s nice when you are rewarded with a view after all of the hard uphill hiking.

We passed the lovely little lake Ibon de Escalar, where there were dozens of people and families relaxing by the shore.

We climbed up to Col Des Moines, where we could see ahead into the French side of the Pyrenees. The tallest mountain in the distance is called Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

Predictably, as soon as we descended off the pass and into the French side, the fog returned.

At one point we descended low enough, to be under the layer of fog and actually get somewhat of a view of the valley we were traveling through.

Looking ahead to our next upcoming climb…

We passed by a shepherd’s hut, and of course they were selling cheese. Every single day on this trail I pass a sign that says “Fromage” !

When we got partway up the next climb, we were back in the fog.

Occasionally the wind would pick up and break up some of the fog and we had a view of the impressive Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

At this elevation it was quite rocky, and the marmots were everywhere.

Huge mountain!

The climb up over the final pass for the day was full of scree and talus.

I always have lots of fun climbing up talus. It’s slow going, but a nice challenge.

I saw this hoofed animal in the distance, and I was told it’s called an Isard.

Yup, this was a pretty high pass.

We descended to the Refuge de Pombie, and the fog was getting pretty thick.

Yup, marmots were everywhere.

The refuge was a welcome site in the cold fog.

I went inside to talk to the caretaker and ask if it was still possible to have dinner. After some confusing exchanges in French, I was able to get my name on the list for dinner which was €17. There is also a bunkroom, which was full, but he said I could sleep in the overflow tent. Perfect! Adam caught up a few minutes later, and dinner was served at 7pm. It was some sort of pasta dish with vegetables and there was even a dessert, amazing! There’s a very nice atmosphere in these mountain huts and I see why they are so popular.

Hopefully tomorrow the fog disappears so we can get some views of the high Pyrenees again!